Tutorials

I've always been leery of posting tutorials on my site, because I don't feel comfortable telling people how to sculpt.  Sculpture is a very personal event, we each have our own styles and methods we've developed which specifically work for us, and I feel it's not my job to tell you who you are and how you should create.  HOWEVER there are tips that I thought I'd share, if you are interested in learning to produce certain things, minor details and working methods.  It is important to keep in mind no tutorial is written in stone. Please feel free to modify  these methods to suit your own sculpting style, I won't teach you how to sculpt, but I can share with you what I know!  Happy Sculpting!

 

HOW TO SCULPT LIFELIKE FINGERNAILS

Fingernails... this has to be one of the top issues people email me about.  I've had this tutorial on and off my website periodically over the years, but since I finally am compiling a tutorial page I figured this would be a great place to start!  I have a lot of fun with this method, my fingers may not be realistic... but the nails certainly are convincing!!

 

 

Click on images for full page tutorial

 

**As soon as I can I'll remake this tut in a more printer friendly fashion... also my apologies for the fuzzy pics.**

 

Below are some samples of nails... of course this technique is great for both fingers and toes!

HOW TO MAKE A SPOON DOLLTM

This tutorial is currently under construction, My apologies for not having this together entirely yet.. I'm workin' on it

He's what I have for now...

For a brief history of my spoon dolls

click here

List of supplies:

  • Polymer clay

  • 1 Wooden Spoon

  • Sculpting tools you are comfortable working with

  • Oven safe glass eyes (or even black or red marbles) Anywhere from 10mm to 28mm- have fun with it.

  • 2 part 5 minute epoxy

  • Super glue (if you can find some for acrylic nails it doesn't effect the clay as much)

  • Wire (flexible but stiff- here I'm using 18 gage steel wire)

  • And a pair of needle nose pliers

Pretty simple... just get sculptin'!

 After smoothing out the clay I usually add the color just prior to baking.  Crushed pastels, Pearlex Powders or even (glitter free) powdered make up can be lightly brushed onto/into the clay.  Next step bake the head as per directed on the package.

**If the color is clotting or sticking and not going on smoothly enough you can lightly bake the piece and then apply the color- just make sure the clay isn't baked entirely.  You need to RUB the powder into the clay.**

 

Next... ears

 

 

Super glue if you need to...

 OR you can add ear armature with your two part epoxy to the wood.

Roll the clay from the outside-in forcing the glue

 to move in- you are going to want to keep it off the baked clay.

Use a pyramid type design (thick at the base)

and sculpt which ever ear suits your fancy.

Here's a little tip to give your clay a little glow AND seal in the color.  Immediately after baking pull your piece out and hold the spoon handle with one hand (pot holder) and rub the face down with wax paper.  Try to get in all the nooks and crevices.  After the piece is cooled rub the piece again with a soft clean rag to add a little extra shine.

 

SO... Here he is all baked and of course since this piece is being documented.. he had a great deal of moonies (murphy's law)

 

In order to salvage this piece I've given his "problem areas" a glaze of both  tan and greenish paint  (model masters acrylics)

 

He is going to be a kind of grubby fellow anyhow... but it just goes to show, even the best laid plans and go awry.  Don't panic, just make it work for you!

AH! I nearly forgot!! Lips and teeth.. I usually give a glaze or two of clear nail polish... IF you use polish that is for acrylic nails it should be fine.  I know some folks think it's awful and if you have concerns use a gloss acrylic paint.  The polish I use has never reactivated on me, however... and it gives such a great shine!

And don't worry too much about the back of the ear- this area is going to be filled in and covered with foam

.More detailed process pics (and text) to follow... for now this is what I've got...

Old Demo below...

Create a "spring" out of twisted armature wire and epoxy to the "In" side of the wooden spoon, this will help hold the clay on the surface.  When  the epoxy is cured sculpt face on your spoon embedding your armature in the bulk of the face.  IF you can try and cover the whole bowl. When the face is to your liking bake it.  I find that a bottle makes a good stand for the oven.

 

   

For the back of the head I use foam (the soft and squishy stuff in cushions).  You can glue the foam to the back of the spoon (cut or carved into the shape you desire), this will not only save you clay but makes the back of the head nice and soft. 

Usually the hair can be applied right to the foam.  If you aren't sure you can sew it on as well.  I've found for this sized dolls nearly any kind of fun hair can work.  I end up using hair from those hair clips a lot, technically they are just a small wig over a clip, you just pry it loose and ta da!!

 

 

  

 

below: Fawn hair try outs (before her ears were added)

  

 

You can sculpt the hands and feet separately and attach them to the spoon handle with a staple gun (**BE CAREFUL**)  5 minute epoxy, epoxy putty or any number of adhesives.  Just make sure it's secure, so you're doll won't fall apart on you!

As you assemble the spoon doll have fun with the pose and if you are sculpting feet you can easily find it's balance to make it stand. (Well at least with the big feet I make.. LOL)

OH! I nearly forgot, sometimes the spoon handle is too long... so you might want to plan ahead and cut it a little shorter before you get started.. but not to worry... If at this point you find that the handle is too long this phase is a good time to clip off the excess.

 

 

   

  below: Eyke has been reinforced with Magic Sculp around where he is attached to the spoon handle AND his wrists and ankles for added strength during pose changes.  

Next, using the same foam (as the back of the head) you can create a body by blocking in the shapes and tacking them together.  I find that if I carve the whole shape out with a nice sharp exacto (OR you can use an old electric turkey carver!!) ..I can then split it down the middle and simply join the two pieces together like a sandwich.  But which ever way you can do it to make it look neat will work.  It doesn't have to look perfect, you are still going to dress the figure over this padding.

 

 

And of course the last step is making it all final.  You can add your clothes right onto the figure (I attach mine permanently).  Dress accessorize and have fun with it. 

These dolls can be more puppet than doll (like SpoonHilda on top), for the puppet dolls we've found that glass bottle make great doll stands.

My Apologies for this being so jumbled, Ideally it would just be one doll all the way through. But I hope you find this little ditty helpful and HAPPY SCULPTING!

Full tutorial coming soon